In its October 2026 edition of Watch Guy Watches, GQ presents a monthly curation of high-end timepieces designed for serious collectors. The selection features H. Moser & Cie. introducing retrograde seconds complications, A. Lange & Söhne reviving a platinum bracelet option, the Biver brand launching its first hand-wound three-hander, and Breitling adding vintage-inspired models to its core catalog.
H. Moser & Cie. continues its reputation for creativity by expanding its Pioneer Retrograde Seconds collection with three new models across the Pioneer, Endeavour, and Streamliner lines. The standout release is the Streamliner Retrograde Seconds, housed in a 40mm brushed stainless steel cushion case with an integrated serpentine bracelet. Its midnight blue fumé enamel dial features applied indices and a modified syringe handset, while the lower half displays the retrograde seconds mechanism powered by the Agenhor-calibrated HMC 252 movement. This complication tracks seconds in an arc before jumping back every 30 seconds, inspired by automotive gauges. Despite its high-end pricing of 29,900 CHF and complex aesthetics, the watch is designed as a functional tool with 120 meters of water resistance, automatic winding, and a 72-hour power reserve.
A. Lange & Söhne marks the 20th anniversary of its Datograph Perpetual with a special edition limited to just 50 pieces. This version features a diamond-studded black dial and a new matching platinum bracelet designed with five links, differing from the seven-link versions produced by Wellendorff in the early 2000s. The timepiece is powered by the brand's manually wound Calibre L952.1 movement.
The Biver brand, co-founded in 2022 by Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver, expands its lineup beyond its initial tourbillon and the Automatique with a new hand-wound three-hander dubbed the AB. Measuring 38mm wide and 9.8mm tall, the watch features a black multi-level onyx dial with gold accents and a stainless steel bracelet with an angular five-link design and a patented micro-adjust system. It is powered by the new Calibre JCB-004, developed in collaboration with Le Cercle des Horlogers. Positioned as the brand's entry-level model, it carries a price point comparable to a BMW M3 and has already sold out.
Breitling introduces two non-limited editions inspired by vintage designs. The Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 is a modern reinterpretation of the 1960s ref. 806 "Twin Jet" chronograph. Measuring 41mm in stainless steel, it is manually wound and available with a brown leather strap for $7,900 or a steel bracelet for $8,400. Additionally, Breitling offers a hand-wound version of the Cosmonaute, a riff on the Navitimer featuring a 24-hour dial famously worn by astronaut Scott Carpenter in 1962. This model is priced between $10,600 and $11,000.
Sources: GQ.