The ZDHC Foundation has released version 4.0 of its Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL), updating chemical restrictions and guidance for the textile, apparel, leather, footwear and related supply chains. The organization said the revision reflects new scientific developments and changing industry needs.
The update adds 16 substances that were not previously covered, including bisphenols, formaldehyde, polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) and certain ultraviolet absorbers. The additions address risks including endocrine disruption, carcinogenicity and aquatic toxicity. Existing restrictions have also been tightened, with lower limits for chemicals such as alkylphenol ethoxylates, chlorinated paraffins and some organic solvents.
Three substances have been added to the MRSL Candidate List for further monitoring, while two have been transferred to the Archive List. Titanium dioxide has been removed from the MRSL following changes to its regulatory classification.
Version 4.0 also revises formulation limits, analytical methods and material-specific guidance for textiles, leather, rubber, foams and adhesives. Separate guidance has been provided for suppliers, chemical formulators and testing organizations dealing with specific substances.
PFAS management is a central part of the revision. ZDHC confirmed that intentionally adding PFAS is not permitted in compliant chemical formulations. The organization established limits for unintentional contamination at 25 micrograms per kilogram for individual PFAS, 250 micrograms per kilogram for the combined total of PFAS and 50 milligrams per kilogram for total fluorine content.
Alongside the MRSL update, ZDHC published a PFAS position paper and practical interpretations. The documents reinforce its position that intentional PFAS use is non-compliant, including when the substances are used for performance requirements in applications such as military equipment, technical textiles and protective clothing. Unintentional traces are treated differently.
ZDHC acknowledged that current chemical management systems, testing methods and regulations cannot guarantee the absence of detectable trace PFAS from every possible source in a global supply chain. Phil Patterson, chair of the ZDHC MRSL Council, said the organization aimed to improve clarity and help the industry make better-informed chemical choices.
The foundation said MRSL 4.0 is intended to give brands, suppliers, formulators, certifiers and testing organizations clearer guidance for updating their own requirements. ZDHC also said it will continue working with these groups as scientific, regulatory and analytical capabilities develop.
Sources: WWD.