Sinéad O’Dwyer’s Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection, “Notice Me,” continues the designer’s interest in the body in motion. Its central sequin-covered slip dress features blurred photographs by Ottilie Landmark, taken from “Knead,” a movement work O’Dwyer developed with choreographer Grace Nicol at London’s Barbican Centre in 2025. The performance examined watching, being watched and the desire to be seen.
The collection was first presented in the Victoria and Albert Museum’s Raphael Court before being documented in an intimate lookbook by Landmark. It also marks a shift toward clothes that are easier to buy and wear, while retaining O’Dwyer’s technical and body-inclusive approach to construction.
Tailoring was a particular focus. A double-breasted jacket combined an oversized, masculine silhouette with a curved waist, while zippered jackets, corset tops, matching trousers and pencil skirts extended the collection’s utilitarian mood. To develop the cuts, O’Dwyer exaggerated the back and seat of a mannequin, using the resulting shape to inform jackets and shirting that maintained their generous proportions.
Sequined dresses were made from stretch mesh, giving their surfaces a liquid, sweat-like quality. Satin-finished slip dresses in icy blue and green, along with fine-knit gowns, moved freely while retaining sculptural forms. Stretch sports fabrics appeared in pale dresses and separates with softly gathered bustlines designed to follow the body rather than confine it.
The pattern cutting was intended to accommodate a wider range of proportions without fixed cup sizes or extensive alterations. Zippers allow wearers to adjust fit and exposure, while micro-shorts with doubled waistbands added an athletic element. More rugged pieces were contrasted with lingerie details, including sheer mesh bralettes finished with small satin buttons and long ribbons.
The buttons were part of one of the collection’s most demanding techniques. O’Dwyer has been developing a method of chain-stitching them into garments during construction, with around 4,000 buttons used on each of two detailed long-sleeved gowns. Those designs are now positioned within the label’s bespoke and made-to-order offering rather than its ready-to-wear line, reflecting the growing importance of occasionwear to the business.
Spring 2027 also builds on a refreshed brand identity, including an updated logo. The collection will be sold exclusively through O’Dwyer’s own e-commerce platform, giving the designer greater control over pricing and release timing. Its approach places the most labor-intensive techniques in bespoke pieces while making the wider wardrobe more accessible, without moving away from the label’s focus on the realities and possibilities of the body.
Sources: Vogue.