Demna’s Spring/Summer 2027 show for Gucci was presented as a turning point in his effort to address the brand’s unsettled identity. But rather than offering a definitive answer to whether he can save the Italian fashion house, the Milan show focused on what the designer said he wants fashion to deliver: beauty, sex and an immediate sense of attraction.

“Clear and attractive and hot,” Demna told Tim Blanks, describing what he needs from fashion and why he sees Gucci as the right place to pursue it. The collection followed a year in which he has sought to bring coherence to the label’s competing identities.

A look book and a film had already helped return Gucci to the fashion conversation. Demna is now looking ahead to a February show that he said will be shaped by “a new minimalism.”

Other recent moves have offered further glimpses of the broader reset. The designer staged a cruise show in Times Square, while Gucci’s new Avenue Montaigne flagship provides an early indication of how Demna and chief executive Francesca Bellettini plan to reshape the retailer’s stores as they work to reverse a prolonged sales slump. Bellettini said the Paris store’s concept needed to make its Italian references unmistakable.

Sources: The Business of Fashion.